Runway Reviews: Fashion Week Fall 2012 (Part III)

If you’re so inclined, Part I & Part II.

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Martin Grant

I first wrote about him last year, but have been in love with the rather discreet French brand since 2008/2009. When a girl falls hard, she falls hard.

I wanted to love this collection. It was Martin Grant, for goodness’ sake, and I should; it’s a sweet, very French (from an American perspective, of course). This season was a bit more country-chic and quaint than I’m accustomed to. Even so, it’s difficult to deny the craftsmanship behind the construction. Simplicity is king, and classics are its reigning queen. Any woman could wear the above three—she speaks. Not the clothing.

That is the beauty of fashion.

Michael Kors

I adore Michael Kors. Always have, always will. He is the ultimate, consumer-friendly luxury label that satiates the aspirational shopper, which is deserving of applause for making a fashion brand a household name! Few brands can bridge the gap between the rather nepotistic fashion world and the non-members. Here’s to attainability and (mild) affordability.

However, the past few collections have had left me at a loss for words. While I do appreciate the consistency Kors takes in designing a truly thorough and cohesive collection, it becomes so literal. After 65+ pieces of similar shapes and fabrics, it becomes tiring to the eyes. They’re fantastic on their own. Truly. Repetition, unfortunately, renders boredom.

But thank goodness for the gowns; they never disappoint. He does American sportswear and glamour best, Michael Kors. He knows it, and you see it in the execution. (Also—who else but MK & D Squared could make plaid so lust worthy? Cabin fever, here, in the best way possible.)

Monique Lhuillier

Two words: femme fatale. Here she is, clad in a uniform of red or black, hair down but slicked just enough to keep it out of her face so there’s no distraction from carnal red lips and well-sculpted cheekbones. All eyes on this lady.

So classic.

I miss the hourglass silhouettes that once dominated the catwalks. Experimentation with shape and construction are innovative, yes, but there are some forms that remain forever timeless: they always work. It seems as if just pretty and sensuous are no longer enough for editors and reviewers: the more alien, the better. Erase the woman, she is the canvas, and let the artist explore. (I’ve read before that designers prefer thinner models for that reason; they’re but living hangers, and “beautiful, curvier” women—like of the 90’s—are a distraction to their work.)

Femme, feminine, sexy, sensual, womanly—yes! Give me more! I’ll never tired of it. Knee length dresses which hug the body without being completely body conscious, a Jane Bond-meets-Charlie’s Angel worthy catsuit, gala-worthy gowns. Even the most androgynous look, like a pantsuit, has an edge of sensuality to it.

Here’s to womanity. Let’s celebrate it, embrace it. Why fight it?

Rachel Zoe

Forget the name attached to the collection; disregard the technicalities and specifics. Look at it through unbiased eyes and you will see that it was both a well designed and well executed show that deserves recognition.

There are two types of designers: the artist—mostly self-absorbed or simply couture—and the designer. The latter creates for the constituents who are the women, the ultimate consumers, in mind. It’s selfless in a sense, since he/she compromises a bit of individual creativity for wearability and, to some extent, marketability.

This is what Rachel Zoe brings to Fashion Week. The prestige of fashionability at the ease of wearability, where individual pieces can integrate seamlessly into an existing wardrobe, and an entire head-to-toe look could be worn straight from catwalk to sidewalk, effortlessly. It’s a cohesive and thorough collection. Pieces for every occasion, entire ensembles for any event. I’m hardly the literal 70s, urban bohemian, but there’s a certain flexibility that allows the outfits to be worn on any woman, regardless of personal style, and not look out of place.

Pantsuits, chunky sweaters, leather basics. Drool.

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x

P.S. I clearly have a penchant for pantsuits, a current obsession to be rendered into reality for the next fall/winter season. I love a good balance between masculinity and femininity as some days (and moods) require exactly that.

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