Pre-Fall 2012: J. Mendel, Kelly Wearstler + Zac Posen

My reviews of designer collections mirror my personality (and life motto): all, or nothing. I either like just a scant few, or am blown away by a season in its entirety. Pre-fall collections rarely impress me (perhaps I’m too pleb for all this!), and while I would have preferred to properly share my opinion on more than just three designers, I can’t be bothered with writing about things I feel “eh” about just simply like. I either love or hate, for better or for worse, and because I’m a nice, happy person (ha!), I’ve chosen only to indulge in the three I loved.

I must add, however, that there was actually a fourth (I tweeted about it yesterday). Burberry Prorsum’s pre-fall and resort collections are always one of few that truly impress. No rush, no haste, just good design. Unfortunately, I couldn’t bear picking just a few images out of the twenty-something, and thus predictably, chose not to feature it at all. Again—all or nothing, here.

J. Mendel

J. Mendel. Unapologetic luxury is always the theme of each collection—it is, after all, the very definition of the brand itself. But despite the undeniable air of affluence, there’s a sense of humbleness; it’s understated opulence that reads elegant with just the smallest pinch of edge that keeps it from the dreaded stuffiness of other luxury houses. Granted I may have to be a woman well into my thirties to wear these piece right, but I’ll take mental notes in the mean time. Becoming older—more mature—hardly means sacrificing style for “mom jeans” and wrap dresses that hide both who you and your body are. Instead, it simply means re-thinking and adapting the wardrobe of your twenties. A leather bodycon dress becomes a fitted LBD with leather detailing (forgo stretch, reach for a well cut silhouette); an evening gown balances cutouts with a high neckline and sleeves; a more revealing strapless is given modesty and badass-ery with shearling and leather accessories.

I’ve been told I’m a minimalist dresser (no, not in that way!), and while I think that it’s a nicer way of saying I’m lazy, my personal taste lends for why I don’t care for most designer collections (e.g.: Carolina Herrera, Alberta Ferretti, Lanvin, etc.). There’s a fine line between opulence and pure ostentation, luxury and suffocatingly pretentious. Not that I’m accusing of any of the aforementioned few of the above, but you get the point. I.e., I love a fur coat, but some designers take it too far: a fur coat is already an extravagance in itself. It’s but a matter of cut and nonchalant styling. Hence why J. Mendel never fails to impress me: he does a fur coat justice in all its simplicity.

Kelly Wearstler

Kelly Wearstler. Yes. Yes. Yes! Finally, something within a designer line-up that surprised me, that enthralled me, that had my full and undivided attention. Wearstler says she’s loosely—fishnet, anyone?—inspired by the punk culture and Brit underground scene, and it’s apparent. I hate when a designer goes for a literal recreation of his/her muse; inspiration is meant to be the source of derivation that allows for individual interpretation. There’s some late sixties, some Mod, some Twiggy, some Factory Girl, some Camdentown, even. It’s modern. It’s edgy. It’s sassy, a bit bitchy (think the feminist magazine!)—essentially all the things a young woman would want to wear. And most importantly, Wearstler’s pre-fall oozes wearability. Here’s to consumer power!

Does this deviate from my personal style? More than a bit. But this is for my alter ego, the one who comes out on weeknights. Mismatched prints, a nod toward androgyny, that hair and minimal (but effective) makeup? I’ll take it any day. But first things first: I have my eyes set on the checkerboard trench and those pointy-toed pumps.

Zac Posen

Zac Posen. I used to be a bit of a groupie as his designs brought to mind what would be the lovechild of Oscar de la Renta, Cavalli; i.e., a refined sexiness for a younger audience. But between his spring 2008 or 2009 collection and the most recent season, I can’t quite recall the last time I felt inspired by his shows.

I’ll be honest: I expected a bigger statement from Posen, but, since it’s me we’re talking about, I appreciate the approachability of his pre-fall 2012. Nothing awe-inspiring, but beautiful nonetheless. Simple designs that lend embodiment of character by how the woman chooses to wear the pieces. Not vice versa where the clothing wears the person. Coco (Chanel) was to have said (quote paraphrased) that a woman who dressed impeccably would be remembered long after the initial meeting: this collection is exactly for that.

It’s all very Julia Restoin-Roitfeld—I can picture her in every ensemble, especially the six above (which are, coincidentally, my favorites). Ultra-feminine in an hourglass-loving silhouette and sensual (versus sexy) by design, yet retains the essence of the demure. Perfect for the corporate woman in power. Anything that alludes to such an idea renders itself an immediate click of the “Like” button. Too bad the world isn’t as easy as Staples promises, nor as like-able as Facebook…

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