A.K.A., Empty Thoughts™: a compilation of reviews for all the beauty things I’ve tried so far this year, as told through the empties left behind.

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MAKEUP

Glossier Black Boy Brow: It was revolutionary at launch, and though newcomers have since surpassed the iconic grooming gel-pomade, I still come back to it (this is my third tube)—specifically for their shade of black, and because this was the first brow product that made me understand why eyebrows make all the difference.

Glossier Stretch Concealer: The original, pre-reformulation. It was well-loved, thoroughly adoredd (as you can tell by the state of the pot), and nothing yet has come close to the texture, finish, or wear. Unfortunately, the current version isn’t the same. RIP(erfection).

Marc Jacobs (Brown)ie Highliner Gel Pencil: Another discontinued product, and one I’m genuinely heartbroken over. I’ve tried every (brand-proclaimed) waterproof, smudge-proof, budge-proof, long-wear liner (pencil, gel, liquid, hybrids) and none last more than a few hours on my eyes except the Marc Jacobs Highliners. This matte brown was flattering, too: velvety and rich, nearly the same color as my irises.

Clio Sharp, So Simple 03 Cacao Brown Waterproof Eyeliner: Unfortunately, this pencil smudges but it’s not nearly as bad as others (American ones) on the market. A drier formula lends longevity to the finish, but what makes this pencil reign supreme is the shape. It’s about 2-3mm: precise, ultra-fine, and perfect for defining the inner corners and adding lift to the outer edges (a game-changer for anyone with monolids, in particular).

Anastasia Beverly Hills Dark Brown Brow Definer: This is my second pencil. I prefer it to Brow Wiz because I’m lazy; Definer boasts a generous, triangle-shaped tip that makes shaping and filling a breeze. Less than five seconds are needed per eye, seriously.

Fresh Rosé Sugar Lip Treatment: Are there better balms on the market? Absolutely. But none are as nostalgic as this unscrew-to-reveal metal tube because in high school, this is what the That Girl® of the 2000s had in their tiny Coach bags and Louis Vuitton pochettes. (I was still in my EOS and tinted Blistex era then.) This petal pink, however, is one of the prettiest tints I’ve tried. It’s worth it for the shade alone, though less so if you’re looking for a true lip treatment.

CLEANSERS & TONERS

Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water: The best. Bottles on bottles, emptied. Bioderma is a cult classic for good reason.

MadHippie Jelly Cleanser: If you love the texture of Glossier Milky Jelly but prefer a more “active” (re: botanical-packed) formulation, give this one a try. I’m actually on my second tube and genuinely love the bouncy gel-to-milk experience.

Some by Mi AHA-BHA-PHA 30Days Miracle Toner: I’m halfway through a second one. The fresh, tingly sensation may not be for everyone, but if you have oily, resilient skin, it’s zingy without sensitizing. A treat on a humid day or post-Pilates, too.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 1970: I must’ve polished off three bottles now (all the original formula). There’s a visible difference in my skin when I’m not using this consistently so yes. It is as good as everyone (and their mothers) claims.

MOISTURIZERS + EYE CREAMS

Etude House SoonJung 2x Barrier Intensive Cream: Every product from the SoonJung line is a hit. The texture of this moisturizer is lovely: midweight and melts into skin beautifully. No tackiness or slickness is left behind, just a hint of dewiness.

Decorté AQ Brightening Cream: I have a few Decorté products and while I’m scrambling to repurchase them at this point in my life, there’s nothing negative to say either. If you don’t mind fragrance, this is one of those creams that just smells rich. Points must be awarded for the packaging, too: it’s a welcome change from the usual “luxe” look.

First Aid Calendula Cream: I bought this because of a semi-viral TikTok. While I can’t definitively say I agree with all the healing claims, I did find it comparable to the Etude House moisturizer in how it felt protective, barrier-supporting even. Love the texture of this too; there’s a little more slip that makes it great under makeup.

Kahi Wrinkle Bounce Balm: Also on my second one of this moisturizing stick. I absolutely bought it because of its prime product placement in every K-drama ever and am pleasantly surprised. Is it wrinkle-smoothing? Not really; moisturization is doing the legwork when it comes to ironing out dehydration-induced lines. The overall experience though? Exquisite. I love anything in a stick, the balm glides across effortlessly, and product sinks into skin for a silky-smooth finish. The fragrance is incredible, too. I want it bottled up as a perfume and infused in a full bodycare line, now.

Cultus Artem Moisture Milk: I have the full size of this. I’m still trying to figure out of this is causing my skin to break out, but I almost don’t care because (1) the texture and finish are beautiful (2) my skin looks like glass immediately and for the first few days of use (3) the scent is to die for. Beautiful brand, beautifully executed skincare.

Cultus Artem Moisture Cream: This is about 1.5x richer and just as gorgeous as the lighter milk. Loved this as a neck and décolletage cream.

Embryolisse Radiant Eye Stick: I’ve exhausted my stash (I cleaned out a Parisian pharmacy during my last pre-COVID trip), and it’s taking more willpower than I imagined to resist ordering another online. There’s something about buying beauty products from a French pharmacy (and not just because the European formulas are elite and the prices notably better)… but I digress. I’m enamored with this teeny-tiny stick. It’s perfect for a late-night or post-flight refresh., and a must for insomniacs.

La Mer The Eye Balm Intense: Pictured above are tiny samples because I have very nice friends who are generous with deluxes; not pictured are the five? 10-plus? tubes and tiny pots and full-sized jars I’ve gone through over the years. It’s my favorite eye cream of all time. Texture’s immaculate, finish is sublime. It perfectly primes the delicate under-eye before concealer.

Versed Smooth Landing Advanced Retinoid Eye Balm: I love Versed, period. Product, point of view, price point—all of it—and this eye treatment is no exception. Those tiny fine lines under my lower lash line are noticeably softer, as are the ones around my neck (yep, used this as a targeted neck treatment, too). A tip: warm up the balm between your fingertips to pick up and apply product more smoothly (it’s like a super-firm Vaseline in weight).

Sulwhasoo Essential Lip Mask Moisture: Would repurchase for the packaging alone, but in terms of treatment: worth it. Even the lightest swipe adds cushiony softness and a plump bounce to dry lips. Loved this as the last step of my evening skincare routine, but also as a moisturizing gloss over lip liner, too.

COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence: I was resistant for so long, but yes. So much yes.

SERUMS & TREATMENTS

Cocokind Probiotic Acne Serum: My skin’s been more problematic than usual, but while I had this balancing serum in my routine, it seemed less angry than usual. If you have regular or deep, cystic breakouts, this may not be for you—but troubled combo skin may find this as a skin savior between harsh treatments.

Serumkind Muscat Clearing Drop: Serumkind’s fairly new to me still, but I’m ready to try the whole line. The brand has stunning presentation and formulations from what I can see so far, and I’m fairly certain that this was what kept my skin clear at the top of the year. (L.A.’s hard water and heavy pollution are still wreaking havoc on my skin, two years later.)

Up & Up Maximum Strength 10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel: Re, skin in terrible condition (as noted above). I’ve not used an intense acne treatment in at least a decade, but I found that this was actually helpful in getting rid of tiny, under-the-surface bumps.

Zitsticka HYPERFADE Dark Spot Patches: I’ve tried Hero’s brightening patches and probably needed to give them more time. These, however, make a visible difference after one wear. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation isn’t erased completely even after a few consecutive nights—let’s be realistic, here—but Zitsticka HYPERFADE definitely speeds up the healing time.

Sunday Riley Good Genes: What can I say. When my skin isn’t on this stuff, I know. And when it’s on Good Genes, I know. Countless bottles of all sizes have been loved ’til the very end. This is a forever favorite for me.

The Inkey List Retinol: This is my first product from the brand, can you believe? It’s often compared to The Ordinary (given the price point and hero-ingredient-focused products) but I think if you’re looking for more “active” formulations or gratifying results, The Ordinary is a better bet. From this experience, but also from looking at the ingredient lists, The Inkey List is best suited for anyone who is just getting into skincare and curious about buzzy ingredients or product categories. This serum was neither here nor there for me (my skin isn’t reactive, but it’s responsive—and years in beauty have allowed me to know what works for me well within a week).

PCA Skin Pigment Gel: I purchased this on recommendation and was expecting noteworthy results. I didn’t see those, unfortunately, but when I passed it to my brother to try (he has drier skin), it worked like a charm. Post-breakout marks were virtually gone within a few days of consecutive use.

So Natural Dia Effect Whitening Aurora Serum: I despise “whitening” products on principle (please note, I know this blanket statement doesn’t address the complicated nuances). I don’t usually take recommendations when shopping in stores, but I make an exception for specialty boutiques—like French pharmacies or a Korean beauty store, where this was suggested. This didn’t whiten (thankfully), but it did bring out a natural brightness while diminishing light hyperpigmentation.

SUNSCREEN

Vacation Inc. Classic Lotion SPF 30: I prefer higher SPFs, but aside from the sun protection factor, this was a great body lotion for quick errands in the neighborhood. Affirmative on the “world’s best-smelling sunscreen” claim, too.

Nivea UV Super Water Gel SPF 50 PA+++: ALL CAPS, BECAUSE THIS IS WORTH THE HYPE. Texture. Price. Finish. I want a vat of this stuff, now.

MadHippie Luminizing SPF 29: Again, the protective factor is a little low on me—and this one feels like a mineral sunscreen (if you’re darker than a warm/olive medium, you will be blending for a long time). It was pretty though. Luminizing; true to its name. If you have normal to dry skin, you won’t mind wearing two (proper) fingerfuls, but if you’re combo to oily, use it as a neck and chest moisturizer. Slather it all over your décolletage for a beautiful glow.

COSRX Aloe Soothing Sun Cream SPF 50 PA+++: The Japanese Nivea SPF above was perfect for spring/summer; this Aloe-infused cream was a dream for winter. Another superb sunscreen.

Thank You Farmer Sun Project Silky Calming Sun Stick 50+: I love this, too. It’s easy to apply—smooth with a powder-fresh finish—and perfect as a touch-up. This lived in my bag for a few months; sunscreen sticks are serious skin-savers.

MASKS & MISC.

Doctor’s Visit Instant Resurfacing Mask: Like I said, I love Versed. I find that it’s hard to go wrong with masks, so if you’re looking for a cheap and cheerful pick-me-up, this exfoliating jelly mask is great.

Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay: It took me years to get through this tub. I’ll never be without this stuff—I mix it with organic apple cider vinegar and use it all over, including my scalp and hair.

GrandeLASH MD Lash Enhancing Serum: I think this is my third or fourth tube. This stuff works, but be wary: it does thin and cause discoloration on your lids.

BODYCARE

Soft Services Buffing Bar: Not pictured, but worth noting because I. Love. This. Bar. To. Bits. (Literally.) And because brands that actually prioritize eco-conscious efforts are worth celebrating. I have terrible strawberry skin on my legs—a late-20s development that started plaguing me out of nowhere—and this exfoliating bar is the only thing that has made a difference.

Soft Services Smoothing Solution: Good to the final squeeze. It’s tacky and pills (so slide right into bed or throw on a pair of sweats) but I think there’s been a reform that’s since this version that promises improved application. To be frank, I don’t care as long as it works, and this exfoliating body gel is exceptional at keeping skin smooth.

Soft Services Carea Cream: Packaging is a 10. Cream is deserving of high marks, too. I’ve been an Amlactin devotee (Lactic Acid is just *chef’s kiss* for my skin, evidenced by my commitment to Sunday Riley Good Genes) but when I switched to this 10% Urea body treatment, the KP never came back. Loved this ’til the last drop and will be repurchasing if I ever get through my current body lotion stash.

Trader Joe’s Brazil Nut Body Butter: This was meant to be a dupe of the Sol de Janeiro Bum Bum Cream (a culture I’m not a fan of, but I succumbed to the hand-drawn signage). It’s moisturizing and smells similar to the cult favorite, but Sol de Janeiro is superior in finish and results. If you’re in it for the fragrance though, this version is worth trying.

Mario Badescu Coconut Body Butter: I’m not a coconut person and am rather particular when it comes to body creams (if it’s a butter, it’d better be  t h i c k  — but if you’re not me, you’ll like this. (To date, Londontown makes my favorite body butter.)

HAND & NAILCARE

Nonfiction Gaiac Flower Hand Cream: Gorgeous slip with a silky, not greasy, finish. Nonfiction makes some of my favorite fragranced products, and this one was a deskside treat.

Byredo Slow Dance Hand Cream: Let’s be honest. We buy Byredo bodycare for the fragrance, but I’ll have you know: the cream is nice (Nonfiction’s hand cream is preferred, though). Also true: I splurged for the name but ended up getting the perfume shortly after. The scent is intoxicating (I’ve been waiting two sweltering seasons to wear the perfume again) and reminds me of Calvin Klein Euphoria, a perfume I adored in high school.

Londontown Nail Hardener & Base Coat: Londontown nail care and polishes are bar none when it comes to efficacy. My nails have been prone to breakage and resistant to growth for most of my life until I started using this base coat (and other products from the line). Nail-changing, seriously.

HAIRCARE

Mielle Rosemary Mint Scalp & Hair Strengthening Oil: I swear it works. And if not—the revitalizing tingle and persistent massage will do something.

Some by Mi Cica Peptide Anti Hair Loss Derma Scalp Treatment: If you can’t tell, my hair’s been through the wringer. Between natural growth cycles and following a bout of intense stress, I was shedding by the handful and desperate to try any solution. I’m happy to report that things are back to normal; this might’ve helped (or given me the peace I needed to let go of one more thing to stress about).

Gisou Propolis Infused Heat Protecting Spray: Another thing I need to be honest about: I’m not sure if this works, period, or works better than other heat protectants, but my hair isn’t crispy, and my ends aren’t split. Must be the propolis. 

Ouai x Byredo Mojave Ghost Super Dry Shampoo: It takes a lot of hair flipping and tszuj-ing to get rid of the white cast, but it works. And the scent lingers for at least a full day.

FRAGRANCE

Oribe Côte d’Azur Replenishing Body Wash: I accidentally tossed the photogenic full-sized bottle, but at least I have this deluxe mini to document Empty Thoughts™ by. The scent is iconic, of course, and lasts long after you step out of the shower, too.

Byredo Gypsy Water Eau de Parfum: Bottle number two, done. I still don’t think it sits well with my skin chemistry, but on fabrics, I love the powdery musk.

Le Labo Lys 41 Eau de Parfum: This was my scent of spring and early summer this year. I still prefer fig-based fragrances (D.S. & Durga Debaser for summer nights for its creaminess, Diptyque Philosykos—the eau de parfum, not the toilette—during the day for its milky greenness), but this lush floral blend was just the change I was craving.

Ariana Grande Cloud Eau de Parfum: I bought this travel vial years ago on a whim because it reminded me of Baccarat Rouge (a hint sweeter, in a tinny kind of way) before it became the Santal 33 of 2021 and 2022, and before Cloud was the talk of the town. Not my kind of scent, but fun to play with. A pretty accurate dupe too, if you’re into that.

W.Dressroom 45 Morning Rain Clear Dress & Living Perfume: W.Dressroom was completely new to me and pitched as must-try while I was at a tiny beauty shop in K-town. It’s certainly more accessible than occasionally spritzing Byredo Gypsy Water on my sheets, but this chic little fabric spray has been such a nice touch to end post-laundry and deep-clean days. It’s light, clean, fresh. Love.

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xx