Christophe Josse to Debut First Prêt-à-Porter Collection

In January 2011, French designer Christophe Josse was awarded the official haute couture seal by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Française, French fashion’s governing body. From guest member to the status of permanent member, Josse (the brand) has been graced with the honor to bear an “haute couture” label.

Ambition was not lacking. A mere six months later, he launched his first ready-to-wear collection—it was only fitting that the preview for the Pre-Spring Collection, a prelude to his Haute Couture show on July 4, was held in Paris for buyers.

And already Josse has hinted that he is flirting with a prestigious American (!) department store, to which he said:

“Being a couturier puts me in a different position and gives my ready-to-wear collection a different credibility”.

The full prêt-à-porter collection is to be shown officially next fall in October, made entirely in France. His venture into RTW may have been a move out of pragmatism given the speculated slow, gradual death of haute couture has already begun. Still, Josse ensures he has no intention to leave Haute Couture—imagine the irony having just been upgraded by the Chambre Syndicale with an official seal:

“It’s a fight on a daily basis. For this reason, ready-to-wear is important for a serene future and for my professional growth.”

Stability it is, then.

Now the prospect of an haute couture designer—un couturier—venturing into what is essentially an entirely different world is rendered equal parts excitement and skepticism. It’s like a shoe designer dabbling in dressmaking, a ballerina going into breakdance and street hip-hop—an interesting change, but strange.

Most of the time it’s a bit of a flop: I’m a firm believer in sticking to what you (know you) do best. The couturier designs—no, dreams up—clothing for a character. Art comes to life draped across a breathing, lithe little thing, made mainly to be admired. Prêt-à-Porter is made to be worn. Literally, ready to wear. Ready to be thrown on if need be, to be lived in. Admiration is preferable, but not necessary.

But press images from the first RTW collection are evidence that Josse is more than capable of bouncing between both worlds. He can conjure French fairytales in the same breath as creating a more practical version of his masterpieces. And while I adore the idea of a femme fatale/Bond girl wardrobe, Josse’s spring collection sings to my feminine, girly, Francophile side. Maybe I’ve been reading too many novels of ex-pats in Paris. But can you imagine? A baguette poking out from a market bag under the arm, steaming the inside of the canvas and perfuming both the streets and the sides of her Josse dress? Every well-dressed French girl needs a fresh dose of carbs before doing whatever fabulous thing she has on her agenda. It comes with the territory, this carb addiction.

The point is: the utter Frenchness of Josse, the brand, is indisputable. Ready-to-Wear it may be, but the slightest hint of true haute couture permeates into and exudes from the clothing. It reminds me of Chanel but less androgynous: younger, girlier and very, very feminine. It’s less urban Parisian and more French country—there’s a certain charm of innocent insouciance about it all…

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xx

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