Catherine Malandrino Spring 2014

I have to say that Catherine Malandrino doesn’t get nearly as much credit as she deserves; every collection is always spot on—she’s one in few designers who I believe truly understands and designs for the woman who will be buying the clothes, versus designing for herself—in that there’s a perfect marriage between fashion and wearability. (It’s not to say fashion as an art form isn’t appreciated; it’s simply because at the end of the day, if fashion doesn’t sell, it becomes a has-been.)

That said, nautical was the theme for Spring/Summer 2014. Yachting in southern Europe, more specifically. In fact, it’s quite the literal interpretation—there’s sailing prints on long, floaty dresses, bright blues and red stripes, sheer whites and neutral combinations you’d expect on the bona fide Mediterranean woman—but done smartly. There’s just enough kitsch for the collection to be playful and fresh rather than immature. And isn’t that the idea of summer holiday? To feel young, fun, and alive?

Malandrino is certainly designing for the woman with a bit of humor: she’s a young stylite who admires the sophistication of the European woman, but can’t quite settle for the seriousness that comes with je ne sais quoi. So as any American girl would do, she goes for St. Tropez with  a twist. The devil is is the details but it retains an element of refinement by way of classic, feminine silhouettes. Draped silk becomes a colorblocked explosion of colors you’d see in the Mediterranean (but not necessarily found all together on its native women); Breton stripes and A-lines are re-interpreted into bolder, more graphic versions of their traditional selves; all-black ensembles get a modern makeover with deep-V’s and practical pockets; materials get an update with viscose, eyelet leather, and neoprene.

It’s a sweet collection to say the least. From A-line skirts to flattering jumpsuits, Malandrino encapsulates everything a woman would ever want or need for her holiday getaway. And while it’s not necessarily the essence of the classic St. Tropez woman that’s pinned, it’s the destination—and the spirit of that Malandrino woman—that is captured.

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(images via)